Munich is the birthplace of the Nazi party and spiritual home to the movement. I had thought that postwar de-Nazification erased all vestiges of that era. At my nephew's suggestion, we join a Third Reich walking tour which proves me wrong. The beer hall where Hitler formed the party, former Nazi shrines, the former party headquarters where the Munich pact of 1938 was signed, to the fascist WWI memorial, various official buildings are all still there; you just got to know where to look. Look up at the ceiling mosaic and see a pattern of interlaced swastikas. On a side street the Nazi eagle still adorns the finance ministry but the swastika has been chiseled off. Our guide has a book of photographs of how everything looked in the time. Some things are gone, others merely papered over, and others the same. At the site of Hitler's favorite caf?: a "Starbucks coming soon" sign. |