Belgium
Flight out from
Orlando on Citibird. It's a new
airline owned by CitiHotel group flying from Brussels to various vacation
destinations. Kinda like Southwest
Airlines. Planes are new (B767;
Airbus), but seats are cramped and no pretense of good food. Offsetting
advantage: fares are CHEAP (RT
$266 + tax). Plane filled with
Belgian, French, and German holidaymakers; very few Americans.
Left Wed. eve,
arrived Thurs late AM. Train
directly from airport to center of city <$3. Spent afternoon walking around old city. Next day visited various sites,
museums, including Atomium,
decaying relic/symbol of the 1958 World's Fair. It's a giant, shiny, steel
atom/molecule with obsevation deck, restaurant and exhibits. A Jetsons period piece mostly ignored
by tourists.
Saturday traveled to
Bruges, one of the more picturesque locales in Europe. It was a wealthy center of the Flanders
cloth trade, but in the late fifteenth century the river access to the sea
silted up. Not having the benefit
of HUD to keep the place on artificial respiration, the townsfolk simply moved
away. leaving the site intact to be reborn as a medieval theme park. The city has a network of canals, and
every direction one looks is a postcard view. It's very nice in early Spring, but I shudder at the though
of summer crowds. It's just a hop
and a skip from the Channel, and the English come over in droves.
Sun afternoon I went
on an organized bike tour. Route
ran along canal tow paths, past windmills, German bunkers, and smaller
towns. Very scenic, but not
solitary. While the English
tourists were clogging the city streets, all the Belgies were out in the
countryside. We were supposed to
go as far as the Dutch border, but turned back when it was getting late.
Monday was a
whirlwind tour of Ghent (AM) and
Antwerp (PM). Ghent was the
largest city in Western Europe in the 1400's. Looks a lot like Bruges, only less concentrated. It developed into a large modern city,
but the old stuff is still there.
Antwerp is a very large city and the modern port of Belgium. Its core of churches, town hall, and
guildhouses compares favorably.
Tuesdays was back to
Brussels for a bit of shopping and return Wed. AM. WIth a couple more days I would have visited the WWI
battlefields and gone to Luxembourg.
Weather was
unseasonably warm and clear.
Ideally suited for Eurocrats to sit around in cafes and drink beer, soaking
up the atomoshere, sunshine, and everyone else's tax dollars. Didn't rain at all in the week; only
one day of overcast.
Belgium was a
pleasant surprise. I expected it
to be modern, expensive, and dull. The Eurostuff is, but old quarters are well
preserved (or reconstructed after WWI damage). It's pretty like France, same great food, but friendly like
Holland. People (even the
Francophones) are all very nice.
Excellent tourist infrastructure and support. Everyone speaks excellent English. Price level not cheap, but manageable. A
strong recommendation.
Trip date:
March 1999