I hadn’t done any trip research before departure, so I figure I had better get started: I learn that the vast stretch of land surrounding Santiago is a major agricultural region but holds little to see or do; tourist country begins in the Lakes Region. I decide on Pucon, 400 miles south.
There are all sort of outdoorsy activities. The truly vigorous can depart before dawn to climb to the summit of the snow-capped volcano, Mt. Villarica. The truly hardy can swim in the freezing waters of Lake Villarica. Those somewhat more geriatric can opt for a horseback ride followed by a barbeque on one’s patio. The ride could be improved were the trial more across open country and less along a rural road, but it did reach a very nice waterfall.
Another excursion is to the Termas Geometricas, hot springs. In a narrow cleft an ice-cold waterfall mixes with scalding hot springs to form a series of bathing pools of varied but precise temperatures– you pick the one(s) ideal for you and loll away the afternoon. The weather is quite cool, so once in you don’t want to get out. The constant steam and lush foliage make for a primordial atmosphere.
The area was formerly inhabited by the Mapuche Indians. A local museum displays their distinctive art and jewelry.
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Three days in Pucon. Next place on the map is Valdivia, on the coast, an important city since its founding by the Spanish in 1544. It’s considered a tourist magnet, but I can’t see why. A boat ride reveals some very posh summer homes. Also along the river are a lively fish and farmers’s market and the Submarino O’Brien. Built by the British in 1971for the Chilean Navy and retired in 2001, it is now open for tours.
Moving on to Puerto Varas. Settled by German immigrants, it is pleasantly situated on a large lake in view of two snow-capped volcanos. We stay but one night – I have my sights set on Chiloe.
Chiloe is the largest island of the Chiloe Archipeligo. A Spanish colony from 1567-1810, it was the was the final redoubt and last possession of Spain in South America. There are no harbors for cruise ships and you got to take a ferry from the mainland, so, although tourism is a mainstay, most foreign tourists don’t make it to here. We base ourselves in Ancud, the northernmost city, where we take a room with a view.
The last Spanish fort.
The biggest and bestest church is the cathedral in Castro, the principal city of the island.
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There is not enough time remaining to go very far, so we start on our way back. We return to Puerto Varas for another night and a trip to Mt. Osorno and surrounding areas.
An overnight bus takes us back to Santiago. Our plane home isn’t until tonight, so we have time for a visit to the Concha y Toro winery.
Trip date: November, 2012